Thursday, July 12, 2007
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
We made the 6 O'clock News...
Anyway. We had a "press conference" with a couple of local media outlets, Channel 6 in Vladimir and the Vladimir Information Agency (radio). We sort of roundtabled about this and that, our impressions of the country, Why are you here?, What do you do?, etc. We were in the backyard of the American Home. The guy sitting next to me is Oleg from Channel 6. He was actually an emcee at the 4th of July shindig... He lived in the U.S. and attended the U. of Missouri for a year, so his English is pretty good!
A unique event occurred as we were wrapping things up before lunch. Oleg grapped this big microphone, put it in my face and asked me to answer a question or two IN RUSSIAN. Then the other guy (I can't remember his name) put HIS mike in my face... So. To all of my fellow countrymen and countrywomen, I apologize for any reaction to comments, should they be broadcast publically and set U.S.-Russia relations back 20 years! ;)
(Actually, I secretly approached Aleksei to ask him if I sounded like a blithering idiot and he said my Russian was good... It's most definitely a weird feeling to speak to another country's press in their language, ESPECIALLY in front of Americans. How ironic that in my own country, few people who know me would turn me loose in front of a live mike!) :)
Talk to you from Murom, hopefully... We leave in an hour (3pm).
Пока!
The OTHER Russian icon...
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Grilled cheese sandwiches, post office, et al
Yesterday began with my last Russian language session with Tanya (sniff!); today is my last with Nellie (sniff!). These two women are just great! I am so appreciative for all the Russian language practice I've been getting here. Dr. Pope and the staff here at the American Home have gone out of their way to give me ample opportunity to conjugate verbs and decline endings to my heart's content. I really have become a disciple of this unique institution that is the American Home here in Vladimir.
After the language session, we visited a dentist's office, a photography studio, and the old city (open) market. Around 11:30am, we broke into 5 groups and began a scavenger hunt, which included having to get back to the American Home by bus from where we were on the other side of town, find ingredients for "an American sandwich," find a travel agency and get the cost of a ticket to American cities (ours was New York), take 5 pictures of signs that contain cognates of English words, buy drinks, and get one small souvenir that is representative of Vladimir (we bought a small, cheap Vladimir city flag). When we returned (Stacie and Karen were in my group) with ham, cheese, bread, and mustard, Stacie decided to make our sandwiches grilled cheese. They were pretty good. A grilled chesse sandwich-- as Americans know it-- just doesn't exist here. All the groups returned and we (along with the Russian folks here) ate our "American sandwiches" together. It was an interesting experience...
...But not quite as interesting as a trip to a Russian post office. Perhaps "interesting" is the wrong word. I went with Stacie and Terry, both of whom had post cards to mail back to the States, to help them communicate. First of all, just finding the post office takes some minor detective work. Secondly, once you get inside, there's no easy way to discern where to go next. Thirdly, once you pick a large room with one long counter, there are no well-documented instructions as to what woman at what place behind the counter does what. I guess Russians just know the ropes. So I walked up to the one woman I saw with out a line in front of her and asked about buying postage for postcards. She said that wasn't her job, but the lady next to her (who was away from her post) could help me when she returned. After a minute or so, the woman came back, didn't say anything to me until I said "Excuse me..." to which she replied (word-for-word quote here) "What do you want?" After a short discussion of how much it REALLY costs to send one postcard to America (19 rubles, apparently, but the rounded up to 20 for convenience-- less stamps to stick, which for the postcard mailer IS convenience), the woman asked whether they wanted to mail them airmail or regular (regular means maybe they'll get there before you die, maybe not). I said airmail, so she had to go find a sheet of what looked like Avery ink-jet labels that said airmail (in Russian). Each one had to be individually cut off the page (with scissors, which she was about to do) and peeled off the backing and then stuck on the postcard... Thankfully, she decided to just give us the sheet. Then she had to go get stamps. So, after all of that, Stacie and Terry had to come BACK to the American Home, assemble the postage and airmail stickers, then find somewhere (again) to mail the postcards. I know our U.S. post offices often have long lines and slow service, but at least once you get to a counter, you can do everything at once (the idea being to mail your letter/postcard WHILE you're there)... In some ways, like the post office, it's very hard to believe that this country was ever a superpower.
The last act of the afternoon was Professor Gurvitch (redux). He really is a fascinating character... If there's a book out there by him about his life, I'm sure it would be interesting reading!
I said goodbye to Katya (and Tsar Stefan) this morning... She really was incredibly hospitable! On Sunday, when we wagon train through again to get to the Vladimir station (for a 10pm night train to St. Petersburg), we'll be having a farewell dinner with the host families, so I'll see Katya again. Tonight we will be parcelled out to new host families for four nights. I think I'm being assigned to a woman who has a 14-year old daughter... However, we're not really sure who our families are, as there have been some changes.
If I can get to a computer while I'm in Murom, then you'll see this next step of our journey in living color... So, stay tuned!
Monday, July 09, 2007
Дождь идёт...
Yesterday's docket wasn't all about women, as I had mentioned earlier. After some one-on-one practice with Nellie (I have to say my Russian has been better than during that session-- that woman has the patience of Job), Aleksei told us a few anecdotes about his life under Soviet rule. It's so hard to believe that the Soviet Union really existed, even with the few vestiges that remain. After lunch at a restaurant in town, our first presenter of the afternoon was a gentleman named Percy Gurvitch, who is a professor of foreign languages at Vladimir State Pedagogical University. He is 80+ years old and shared pretty much an hour and a half's worth of contemporay Russian history as he lived it, including 3 years in a Nazi camp and 4 years in one of Stalin's camps. His take on Krushchev and Gorbachev (and even Putin) as three great men was curious, but understandable, given the first couple of Communist leaders. I think he's coming back this afternoon to continue... This is the kind of thing you just can't get from a book or a movie!
The afternoon ended with a discussion about women in Russia-- I have to tell you, the cultural and gender stereotypes in this country are, indeed, speed bumps on the road to any kind of equality as we understand it in America... This topic was interesting, but as I'm far from an expert on women or their roles (in any country), my level of competence on the subject kind of dampened my enthusiasm for participating in the discussion.
Today I think I have another language session, then we have some sort of "scavenger hunt." I don't know exactly what we're looking for, but in my experience here, so far, I don't find things...they tend to find me. Not one day goes by without a surprise... Some days the compass shows the correct heading, other days it just spins out of control... Some days you just have to dead reckon (if I may wax nautical) or flow where the current takes you...
So tonight we pack for Murom. I don't know how frequently I'll be able to touch this blog, so if I'm out of sight for any length of time, I hope I won't be out of mind! :)
Until next time... Всего хорошего!
Sunday, July 08, 2007
Home is where you hang your shapka.
Today (Monday for me already) we will be delving into the issue(s) of women in Russia, after a 9:30 language class (my one-on-one "torture" session). No bus rides-- woo hoo!
There is an optional soccer game tonight, but I'm going to pass. The local team here is named Torpedo (and I think they're playing a team from St. Petersburg)... It's just too much drinking and yelling for me after a day of lectures!
So that's it for now. As usual, more later...
Krolik. The other white meat.
The last Sunday in Vladimir...
Katya is going to see her father in the country (outside of town) and so I won't see her until about 3pm. After a call home around 4, she and I will probably go wander, eat, etc. I really haven't seen her since yesterday morning... And she's no doubt worried to death that I'm not getting enough to eat!
Our time here in Vladimir is winding down. Wednesday around noontime we head off to the city of Murom, where we'll be for 4 nights with other host families. Next Sunday we depart for St. Petersburg by train.
So far, in my opinion, this "seminar" is aptly named ("Experiencing Russia Through Everyday Life")! While I know that the intercultural experience may be more or less favorable per each one of us participating, I have to say that I'm getting a lot out of it-- especially the Russian language experience!
Guess that's it for today. I finally feel caught up... As usual, more later!
Пока!!
P.S. A quick note about the date and time on posts-- each post is stamped with U.S. central (Texas) time. So as I'm writing here, it may be today still (or even odder, your tomorrow) when I write "yesterday," you'll just have to do the math. (That's kind of why I put a clock on this blog.)
Saturday, July 07, 2007
For my Russian students in Texas...
Two meals in two hours!
After the hotel, we visited a ceramics place (where pottery is made; actually a few in our group made an small item while there)... It was quite an eventful day, considering we started with cow poop and all...
Russian Hospitality
A family in/near/just ouside (I'm not sure-- maybe "boondocks" is the best reference) Suzdal opened their home to us. This had to have been one of THE best excursions we've made, by far! As you can see in the first picture, our all-terrain bus is parked on a dirt road in the middle of Nowhere (well, it's really in the middle of Somewhere, if you're a Russian), in front of the house where Sergei (husband) and Nina (wife) live with a son, daughter, son-in-law, two grandsons, and a whole lot of flora and fauna (pigs, turkeys, geese, chickens, dogs, at least one cat, and rows and rows of things growing).
The last picture is of the family (minus the older grandson). It was true Russian hospitality! And so much food. After chowing down with Sergei and Nina, we headed off to visit a relatively new, but traditional style resort-type hotel (where the beer bath thing is available-- I just don't get it, but I'm simple, so...), and then we went to... (see next post)
The source of the problem...
Yesterday (Saturday) was another interesting dayinthelife kind of day here in the metropolitan Vladimir-Suzdal area! Our first stop on the journey was to a collective farm operation, the nuts and bolts of which escape me... I can tell you that, after our initial introduction to the director, we were led to a large (1/3 football field-size) pool of cow poo. From what my sensors indicated, Russian cow poo and American cow poo are pretty much the same. Again, though, the nuts and bolts escape me...
Then, after putting on protective clothing (which, it turned out, was not 100% protective) in a stiff wind (I think the cows were laughing at us), we were herded (pun intended) through the the cow stalls, the floors of which the cows may have thought were clean enough to eat on...
Afterward, the collective folks put out some freebies for us of the stuff they produce. For many in the group, this may have been their first encounter (judging by the looks on some of the faces) with Russian items such as kefir (a yogurt-like substance) and tvorog (mistakenly referred to by many as Russian cottage cheese-- it is really pressed curds, kind of like tofu). The lady who set up the display put out what looked like cheese (little nibbles with toothpicks), but was, in fact, tvorog. You either like it or you don't. I'm not too enamored with it (or kefir), even when it has sour cream on it (they way Russians eat it); Katya put out a brick of it with fruit in it one morning and I ate some (with sour cream on it)...I can take it or leave it, really. They also put out some "drinkable" yogurt (a little looser consistency than a smoothie), which was pretty good. Actually, I had one this morning here at the American Home.
So, we had food... And then... (see next post)
Medal of Honor (Ron-style!)
Friday, July 06, 2007
Zhukovsky Museum
Anyway. The word of the day today is agriculture. We're off to Suzdal (again) to visit some more rural areas, then to the village of Pavlovskoe for lunch... Another all day excursion.
One last thought/observation to share before I sign off for now. I find that I understand just about 100% of the Russian I hear (if I hear a word I don't know, I ask about it, and sometimes the context escapes me...), which is good, but all of our visits and lectures are usually given in Russian and then translated into English. Listening to everything twice, first in Russian, then in English (or vice versa) is like watching a movie in which the language and subtitles keep changing... I'm not complaining-- the practice I'm getting is GREAT. When the situation allows, I try to ask our Russian lecturers and guides questions in Russian, even in front of the other Americans (because I know someone will translate it), just for the practice. This is most definitely a unique experience for me!!
(Okay this is the last thought...) The local paper has a write-up today (Molva, issue number 75) of the 4th party and a picture of Ron (Dr. Pope to you) dancing... Only Terry is mentioned (as "a teacher from Seattle).
What they lack in coffee, they make up for in beer...
A little R&R after today's excursion(s)...
Dr. Pope checking up on his American ambassadors just before 7pm. We were, of course, on our best behavior. :) Terry (from Seattle, not pictured) and I actually logged some time chatting in Russian with the curious locals.
Another Carol
Mmm, coffee!
Still doin' the blimp thing...
How do you say blimp in Russian?
Purloined Fruit
Thursday, July 05, 2007
Sleepless in Vladimir
The next morning, Katya set out a breakfast for me that could have been for a family of four: 3 types of kolbasa-like sausage, 2 types of bread, kasha (hot barley cereal), 2 hot dogs, small croissants with chocolate inside, 2 containers of yogurt, unrefrigerated juice (Russians don't drink cold juice), and boiled coffee (I'm used to it...when I get to where I can see the silt in the bottom of the cup, I stop drinking it). So there I sat, half-awake from the night before, looking at all of this food; Katya was looking at it, too, because she watches me eat (not unlike a hawk, but more like a server in a restaurant)... Oh, but I DID catch sight of that mosquito on the wall before breakfast. Problem solved.
By the time we were released from prison (sidebar... When we returned to the American Home yesterday, I sent the following text message to my wife: "We were just released from prison." The quick response was "What?") and sat through the last lecture, I was dog-tired by the time I go back to Katya's apartment-- hot, sweaty, and about ready for the rack (as we used to say in the Navy). But the rack would have to wait.
Katya is a lawyer of some sort at a big bank down the street. Her boss took us to dinner last night (which was really good and VERY nice of him). His name is Sergei and we met him at 7pm in front of Katya's building, then we got on a bus to go to the popular Azerbaizhanski restaurant in town (where we had already eaten as a group a few days before). Russian meals are a social event and last much longer than American meals. Russians, as a rule, aren't very expediant (however, after being disgorged from whatever mode of public transportaion they were on, they tend to move pretty quickly to whereever it is they go). By the time Sergei finished arguing with the hostess about his reservation, it was 7:45pm by the time we were seated. Through the various courses, I had more than enough opportunity to practice Russian! But around 9pm, some guy named Igor showed up (they told me he had just returned from a business trip) and for an hour the three of them talked about business while I nursed a beer and tried to keep from lapsing into a sleep-deprived coma. (A quick aside-- Katya and Sergei, and Igor, are Russian business people not unlike those in America who have cellphones that go off every 5 minutes.)
We finally finished up around 10:30pm. When we hit the street, Sergei asked if we wanted to go for a walk. I didn't, but when in Rome... So, we meandered back to Katya's (about 3 miles or so), chatting about this and that, though I was so tired I'm not sure what we were talking about, really-- it was mostly smalltalk). 11:30pm now. I finally got into bed and at 2am two cats outside were fighting for what seemed like an hour. But I did get some sleep... Amen.
Today we're off to (I'm not making any of this up): "a Turkish-built factory that produces household appliances, a dirigible-producer, and a brick-producer in the small town of Kirzach..." Of course, I should have the pictures to prove it. :)
Yesterday's journey...
The first and last photos are of us waiting for the bus in the morning and then on a tramvai (trolley) on the way back in the afternoon... The ride back was crowded and hot, but, I suppose, easier than walking...
In the middle photos, you can see me sitting under an A/C unit blowing a gale upon me (it's either feast or famine) and Audrey (to my right; to her right is Stacie and to my left are Tom, Matt, and Warner). The Russians in the other photo were at the table opposite us.
Hands-free evangelism...
Мои (м)учительницы...
By the way, the "(м)учительницы" in the title is a tongue-in-cheek stab at them... the word without the letter in parentheses simply means teachers; with the "м" it means torturers...
Wednesday, July 04, 2007
More of yesterday...
The Russian Bathroom
Next time you get in your shower and turn on the hot water that you take for granted, be grateful. Not everybody has it so good...
American Independence Day in Vladimir, Russia
Rebirth
This display is called "Rebirth" in Russian. I'm not sure why, but it caught my eye in the china and glass museum... It looks sort of churchy; however, if you click on the picture, you can see a larger shot and form your own opinion.
P.S. We are back at the American Home now, about to be put on display for about 80 Russian guests for our 4th of July celebration... I will try to post a picture or two just as soon as possible!
The Great Hall of China
Statue-esque...
Tuesday, July 03, 2007
Still life through a bus window.
I meant to mention a few days ago that the wind blowing through birch trees sounds like rushing water. We walked through a small grove on the way to a small cathedral a mile off the road and the sound was so serene... Another one of those you-had-to-be-there moments, I guess!
And to all you Americans out there, Happy 4th of July! We well be celebrating the 4th here at the American Home tonight after we return from the town of Gus (where we'll be touring a crystal works factory and museum).
С праздником!
















