Thursday, July 19, 2007
Monument to the Heroic Defenders of Leningrad
Katherine Palace
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Indian Tonic Water
Today was a routine day (no petty crime to report!). We started out this morning with a trip to Peterhof (Peter the Great's summer home on the Gulf of Findland) and then we had a quick tour of the State art gallery here in Petersburg. I had never been to the former, and really like the latter. It was a lot of walking, but the excursions were good.
There are so many interesting paintings in the State art gallery, that I could have stayed in there longer than our hour tour (and this was my third visit). But we hasd a nuts-and-bolts tour guide, who is a professor Dr. Pope knows-- he was quick and informative.
Tomorrow we check out of the hotel here, have an excursion or two, then get the night train to Moscow... You know how I feel about those sleeper trains. I'm not really looking forward to it, but I am looking forward to Moscow (and visiting with my friend, Aleksei). Truth be known, I'm starting to become a weary traveller... I'll be ready to get on that plane next Monday. (I've already gotten a slew of school-related emails, so the next year is bearing down on me already.)
Talk to you again from Moscow (probably)...
Oh yeah. "Indian Tonic Water." I just drank a can of it... It's the Schweppes Russia exact equivalent of "Bitter Lemmon." I have NO idea why it's called that or what it has to do with Indians (my theory is that it's something the British concocted in Inda, adding the quinine to prevent some disease like malaria, but I'm not sure)...
There are so many interesting paintings in the State art gallery, that I could have stayed in there longer than our hour tour (and this was my third visit). But we hasd a nuts-and-bolts tour guide, who is a professor Dr. Pope knows-- he was quick and informative.
Tomorrow we check out of the hotel here, have an excursion or two, then get the night train to Moscow... You know how I feel about those sleeper trains. I'm not really looking forward to it, but I am looking forward to Moscow (and visiting with my friend, Aleksei). Truth be known, I'm starting to become a weary traveller... I'll be ready to get on that plane next Monday. (I've already gotten a slew of school-related emails, so the next year is bearing down on me already.)
Talk to you again from Moscow (probably)...
Oh yeah. "Indian Tonic Water." I just drank a can of it... It's the Schweppes Russia exact equivalent of "Bitter Lemmon." I have NO idea why it's called that or what it has to do with Indians (my theory is that it's something the British concocted in Inda, adding the quinine to prevent some disease like malaria, but I'm not sure)...
Stilted view...
I did it. I ate at McDonald's...
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
Metro Pickpockets!
Yesterday we spent a good part of the day on the other side of town. First, we had a great boat ride on the Neva River and through the canals! It was a gorgeous day, weatherwise... Everybody got a trucker tan (and even a mild sunburn). Next we went to The Hermitage (which was crowded as usual) for a quick tour. After The Hermitage, I offered to shepherd any folks who wanted to stay in town back to our hotel via the metro after a couple hours of free-time wandering...
The big news of the evening was the push-and-grab pickpocket incident in the metro station near the center of the city. After we regrouped about 8pm, I led a small group of 6 of us to the metro station to get the train back to our hotel. I never really considered our level of vulnerability, really. Last year, my students took any precautionary measures (such as keep quiet and keep your money/passport in your front pocket on public transportation, don't make eye contact, stay together, etc.) very seriously. I should have been more aware! As we were waiting for the train on the platform, our English and laughing and clothing styles gave us away... As the doors opened, someone(s) pushed us in from behind and I felt a hand in my wallet pocket, which I pushed away (besides, as hot as I was, there was no way my wallet was going to be easily extracted). It happened too fast for me to even see the perpetrators. Mike (from Maine) in our group was not so lucky-- as the doors were closing, I saw him run off the train and down the platform. The train left and we were worried that he (he's a BIG guy) had tackled someone and was going to have to deal with the police. When we returned, I immediately told Dr. Pope, who, in turn, called our native-speaking guide, Nadya, to figure out what to do when Mike showed up at the hotel. At least he still had his passport with him. After he called his wife from the front desk, we got him some cash to tie him over (poor guy was down to one last cigarette), and called it a night. BIG LESSON here for anyone in the audience traveling abroad. It's hard not to be an American, but as soon as some folks hear American English, they see not you, but dollar signs.
Russia, even big cities like St. Petersburg and Moscow, is a safe place with nice people. You just have to be careful. Last night's incident was the first I'd ever been involved in in three visits to this country...
Anyway. That's all the news for now. More later!
The big news of the evening was the push-and-grab pickpocket incident in the metro station near the center of the city. After we regrouped about 8pm, I led a small group of 6 of us to the metro station to get the train back to our hotel. I never really considered our level of vulnerability, really. Last year, my students took any precautionary measures (such as keep quiet and keep your money/passport in your front pocket on public transportation, don't make eye contact, stay together, etc.) very seriously. I should have been more aware! As we were waiting for the train on the platform, our English and laughing and clothing styles gave us away... As the doors opened, someone(s) pushed us in from behind and I felt a hand in my wallet pocket, which I pushed away (besides, as hot as I was, there was no way my wallet was going to be easily extracted). It happened too fast for me to even see the perpetrators. Mike (from Maine) in our group was not so lucky-- as the doors were closing, I saw him run off the train and down the platform. The train left and we were worried that he (he's a BIG guy) had tackled someone and was going to have to deal with the police. When we returned, I immediately told Dr. Pope, who, in turn, called our native-speaking guide, Nadya, to figure out what to do when Mike showed up at the hotel. At least he still had his passport with him. After he called his wife from the front desk, we got him some cash to tie him over (poor guy was down to one last cigarette), and called it a night. BIG LESSON here for anyone in the audience traveling abroad. It's hard not to be an American, but as soon as some folks hear American English, they see not you, but dollar signs.
Russia, even big cities like St. Petersburg and Moscow, is a safe place with nice people. You just have to be careful. Last night's incident was the first I'd ever been involved in in three visits to this country...
Anyway. That's all the news for now. More later!
Processional to Church on the Blood
Nevsky Prospekt
Siege of Leningrad
Monday, July 16, 2007
The White Nights are fading away...
Most folks have heard of the St. Petersburg White Nights, those summertime days (pretty much through most of June) when the sun sets after midnight. Here now the sun sets around 11:30pm or so, then is up again around 3:30am. It's a little strange to look out the window and see people walking around like it's dinnertime, when it's really 10:30pm...
Our hotel is located on the far eastern side of town, off of Nevsky Prospekt, the main drag in St. Petersburg. Nevsky Prospekt runs east-west through the city; on western end between the banks of the Neva River (which snakes east-west, as well, in an inverted C shape-- we're at the end of the right side of the C). We're actually situated right next to the Aleksandr Nevsky Square metro station, so a trip west into the center of the city is a two-station ride (or a 3-mile walk). I was too tired to venture out yesterday, but I think that this evening some of us will metro westward for a bit...
Yesterday we visited the Siege of Leningrad (St. Petersburg during Communism) Memorial Cemetery, where mass graves are located. There were so many deaths during 1942-1944 that the bodies couldn't be buried fast enough. The memorial is a beautifully landscaped garden/park. It was a very moving visit. I tried to upload a pic from my cellphone yesterday, but it wouldn't go... Maybe later.
We also went into the Church on the Blood, which was new for me. I've walked past that church numerous times on each visit to St. Petersburg, but had never been inside. The church was built on the spot were Tsar Aleksandr II was fatally wounded in 1881. It's the St. Basil's Cathedral (which is Moscow on Red Square) of St. Petersburg. The inside is fascinating-- all the icons are mosaics. You just have to see it to believe it. During the Communism era, it was a potato storehouse (so some jokingly refer to it as the Church on the Potatoes).
The food in this hotel is uber-European, but more Western than in Vladimir or Murom. The bad part about this hotel is that it's chock full o' tourists, so everyone speaks English and, where there's English, there're higher prices... But it's tolerable, enough. The accomodations are good and I just love surprising the English-speaking Russians as a Russian-speaking American. In fact, often I hear them conversing about people that they assume can't speak Russian-- like my group, which looks and sounds so American... It's kind of fun. :)
So we're off again to see more sights at 9:30am (in about 20 minutes). All's well here in St. Pete for now...
More later!
Our hotel is located on the far eastern side of town, off of Nevsky Prospekt, the main drag in St. Petersburg. Nevsky Prospekt runs east-west through the city; on western end between the banks of the Neva River (which snakes east-west, as well, in an inverted C shape-- we're at the end of the right side of the C). We're actually situated right next to the Aleksandr Nevsky Square metro station, so a trip west into the center of the city is a two-station ride (or a 3-mile walk). I was too tired to venture out yesterday, but I think that this evening some of us will metro westward for a bit...
Yesterday we visited the Siege of Leningrad (St. Petersburg during Communism) Memorial Cemetery, where mass graves are located. There were so many deaths during 1942-1944 that the bodies couldn't be buried fast enough. The memorial is a beautifully landscaped garden/park. It was a very moving visit. I tried to upload a pic from my cellphone yesterday, but it wouldn't go... Maybe later.
We also went into the Church on the Blood, which was new for me. I've walked past that church numerous times on each visit to St. Petersburg, but had never been inside. The church was built on the spot were Tsar Aleksandr II was fatally wounded in 1881. It's the St. Basil's Cathedral (which is Moscow on Red Square) of St. Petersburg. The inside is fascinating-- all the icons are mosaics. You just have to see it to believe it. During the Communism era, it was a potato storehouse (so some jokingly refer to it as the Church on the Potatoes).
The food in this hotel is uber-European, but more Western than in Vladimir or Murom. The bad part about this hotel is that it's chock full o' tourists, so everyone speaks English and, where there's English, there're higher prices... But it's tolerable, enough. The accomodations are good and I just love surprising the English-speaking Russians as a Russian-speaking American. In fact, often I hear them conversing about people that they assume can't speak Russian-- like my group, which looks and sounds so American... It's kind of fun. :)
So we're off again to see more sights at 9:30am (in about 20 minutes). All's well here in St. Pete for now...
More later!
We made it to St. Petersburg...
...the only thing that didn't make it, apparently, is the USB cable I need to upload pictures. I must have left it at the American Home.
Anyway, I had the usual little-to-no-sleep night train experience. BUT... We got off the train around 10:30am and were whisked away to our hotel, the Hotel Moskva right near the center of the city. I just had a shower that I could better describe to you if this wasn't a family-friendly blog. Man, talk about movin' to Beverly (Hills, that is, swimmin' pools, movie stars...)! St. Petersburg is the very antithesis of Murom. You could just see it in the others' eyes as we were on the bus through town to the hotel... Coffee shops! Stores! Cafes! (I think I may have seen a tear or two...) We all agreed that we had once-in-a-lifetime experiences in Vladimir and Murom, but many were without hot water, and I was on the Nescafe 12 Step Program (which ends RIGHT now, brothers and sisters).
I haven't really slept more than 4 or 5 hours solidly in the last two days, so I'm a little punchdrunk right now as I write. But I'm clean. Doesn't get much better than a hot shower after a 12-hour train ride (by the way, there were rumors that we were delayed because of a train wreck between Moscow and St. Petersburg; I don't know, but if you get wind of it in the States, we weren't a part of it).
If I can connect to the right cell service, I can send up a few pics that way... Maybe I can buy another USB cable. We'll see. Anyway, the adventure continues. Lunch somewhere at 1pm and then... I'm not really sure what's next. I'm just happy to be back in St. Pete. I really love this city!
More later as the plot unfolds!
Anyway, I had the usual little-to-no-sleep night train experience. BUT... We got off the train around 10:30am and were whisked away to our hotel, the Hotel Moskva right near the center of the city. I just had a shower that I could better describe to you if this wasn't a family-friendly blog. Man, talk about movin' to Beverly (Hills, that is, swimmin' pools, movie stars...)! St. Petersburg is the very antithesis of Murom. You could just see it in the others' eyes as we were on the bus through town to the hotel... Coffee shops! Stores! Cafes! (I think I may have seen a tear or two...) We all agreed that we had once-in-a-lifetime experiences in Vladimir and Murom, but many were without hot water, and I was on the Nescafe 12 Step Program (which ends RIGHT now, brothers and sisters).
I haven't really slept more than 4 or 5 hours solidly in the last two days, so I'm a little punchdrunk right now as I write. But I'm clean. Doesn't get much better than a hot shower after a 12-hour train ride (by the way, there were rumors that we were delayed because of a train wreck between Moscow and St. Petersburg; I don't know, but if you get wind of it in the States, we weren't a part of it).
If I can connect to the right cell service, I can send up a few pics that way... Maybe I can buy another USB cable. We'll see. Anyway, the adventure continues. Lunch somewhere at 1pm and then... I'm not really sure what's next. I'm just happy to be back in St. Pete. I really love this city!
More later as the plot unfolds!
Sunday, July 15, 2007
The Colonel
Vladimir (Volodya to his friends) and his wife, Tatyana, are the TWO MOST HOSPITABLE Russians I have ever encountered! They treated me like their son. The dacha experience (life in "the country") I had thanks to them was unforgettable, berry-picking and all! Volodya is a retired Russian Army colonel and a psychologist (and is actually a professor at Murom U.) He and his wife-- she is a school teacher who speaks some English-- really love their country place. He renovated an old 1940s era dacha (dacha comes from the Russian verb "to give" and refers to the actual plot of land given to Soviet citizens) house and built his own Russian-style banya (steambath) behind it. He also installed a hot water shower next to the banya... In a country where the hot water is turned off every summer for days at a time, he's living in the lap of luxury.The banya is a part of Russian culture-- it's more than a sauna. There's a ritual to going in and coming out to shower off three times. The temperature inside was abour 150 degrees and when inside, you wear a silly-looking, almost elf-like wool hat ("to keep your head from burning"). Flagellation with a handful of wet birch branches while you're in there is supposed to be therapeutic... I don't know what medicinal properties birch trees have, but I know that when all was said and done, I was cured like a ham. I really DID feel refreshed (like someone had ripped off my old skin and put me in a new one)... There's nothing like a naked 65-year old man covered in sweat and wearing an elf hat beating you with tree branches. Oh well, as we say, there's one way and there's the Russian way...
After we went through three times, Stacie and Tatyana went in. Stacie had never experienced a banya (my only other experience was a public banya in Moscow three years ago-- not QUITE the up close and personal treatment I got at the dacha!) before, so she was a little apprehensive perhaps. But we could hear the two of them chatting and laughing from outside, where the Colonel was building a fire... In the end, Tatyana really enjoyed talking with Stacie (and even shared some anecdotes about her husband with her). We drank beer and chatted around the fire until later in the evening, then The Colonel brought out the accordian and sang a tune or two... We really had a good time (and, again, all slept in the same room-- a little too close for comfort for me, but it was only for a few hours)!
When we were eating breakfast, they gave both me AND Stacie parting gifts. It was very nice of them. I will truly remember my time with them as one of the most positive real-life cultural experiences in Russia! Unfortunately, I don't have enough time to tell all the stories I have about The Colonel (his driving, his sense of time, his talking to himself, his fondness of repeating "No need to hurry... I'm a pensioner... and you are on vacation." as we're running late, etc.)
The first picture below is of the three of us as we were getting ready to drive over to Murum U. to get the bus back to Vladimir today. The other two are of Volodya last night.
Tonight we're off to St. Peterburg at 10pm on a sleeper train. More from St. Petersburg...
So, stay tuned!
Nastya
This is Stacie from Detroit with whom I shared Act 2 of The Dacha Experience with Vladimir (The Colonel) and Tatyana last night. There is so much about this Russian couple, that a blog post or two just can't do it justice. So let me preface what's coming next with a little more context. Stacie (Nastya-- a short form of Anastasia to The Colonel since he couldn't get the hang of Stacie) had the misfortune of being assigned to a host family that was, for the most part, a mother and two little girls, 4 and 2. The house was a mess (really dirty-- details too disgusting to add here), so Stacie was moved into the same house where Aleksei (of Aleksei and Galina) was staying, which meant she was really without a host family. The Colonel was excited about getting his homemade banya (a Russian sauna) fired up yesterday; the banya is a cultural experience and I knew that Stacie had never been to one, so I relayed her host family story to him and asked if she could come along yesterday to their dacha. Both he and his wife welcomed her with open arms... What seemed a little odd to me at first as a host family assignment turned out to be one of the greatest cultural experiences I've had in this country. The picture is of Stacie sitting at the kostyor (campfire), between the dacha (small country house) and the banya, after we had the banya experience (which I'll relate to you in the next post)...
Apparently it's okay to do this in Wisconsin...
...but not here in Russia. Karen had to be hauled away by the police...(Okaaaaayyyyyy... Not really.)
But 2nd grade teachers really do need a shorter leash-- or so it would seem-- than the rest of us.
This was a really interesting time (Karen not excepted) at the Dom Tvorchestva on Friday, where we had more than a little cultural entertainment, like a concert from these guys in the second photo, a group of traditional Russian folk singers (sort of Oak Ridge Boys-like, in a folksy, old-time Russian sort of way), named Muroma. They were great! I also got yanked out into the spotlight to a) flip a pancake while the traditional Russian childhood scary witch-in-the-woods Baba Yaga was yelling at me, b) dress up like a bogatyr (old Russian knight), replete with helmut and armor and sword (sorry, no photo), and c) danced with a girl dressed in period clothing from the 18th century.
Back in Vladimir...
This is another breaktime picture from Murom. We rolled back into Vladimir around noontime today (Sunday) and are at the American Home now gearing up for our train ride to St. Petersburg at 10pm. In the meantime, everyone is doing last minute laundry, shopping, emailing, etc. There is a last farewell dinner tonight at 6pm with our Vladimir host families, then we're off... Like everyone else... I'm behind, so I'm going to blog what I can while I have a little time here...
Friday, July 13, 2007
Thursday, July 12, 2007
Dacha 7
More on The Colonel later...
Big guy, little table. And this is a university...
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Sofa bed is better than no bed...
My new host family...
We made the 6 O'clock News...
...or the 6:05 or the 7:19 or the 9:43 news-- for the life of me, I cannot figure out when tv programs start in this country (you'd think mostly on the hour, but...).
Anyway. We had a "press conference" with a couple of local media outlets, Channel 6 in Vladimir and the Vladimir Information Agency (radio). We sort of roundtabled about this and that, our impressions of the country, Why are you here?, What do you do?, etc. We were in the backyard of the American Home. The guy sitting next to me is Oleg from Channel 6. He was actually an emcee at the 4th of July shindig... He lived in the U.S. and attended the U. of Missouri for a year, so his English is pretty good!
A unique event occurred as we were wrapping things up before lunch. Oleg grapped this big microphone, put it in my face and asked me to answer a question or two IN RUSSIAN. Then the other guy (I can't remember his name) put HIS mike in my face... So. To all of my fellow countrymen and countrywomen, I apologize for any reaction to comments, should they be broadcast publically and set U.S.-Russia relations back 20 years! ;)
(Actually, I secretly approached Aleksei to ask him if I sounded like a blithering idiot and he said my Russian was good... It's most definitely a weird feeling to speak to another country's press in their language, ESPECIALLY in front of Americans. How ironic that in my own country, few people who know me would turn me loose in front of a live mike!) :)
Talk to you from Murom, hopefully... We leave in an hour (3pm).
Пока!
Anyway. We had a "press conference" with a couple of local media outlets, Channel 6 in Vladimir and the Vladimir Information Agency (radio). We sort of roundtabled about this and that, our impressions of the country, Why are you here?, What do you do?, etc. We were in the backyard of the American Home. The guy sitting next to me is Oleg from Channel 6. He was actually an emcee at the 4th of July shindig... He lived in the U.S. and attended the U. of Missouri for a year, so his English is pretty good!
A unique event occurred as we were wrapping things up before lunch. Oleg grapped this big microphone, put it in my face and asked me to answer a question or two IN RUSSIAN. Then the other guy (I can't remember his name) put HIS mike in my face... So. To all of my fellow countrymen and countrywomen, I apologize for any reaction to comments, should they be broadcast publically and set U.S.-Russia relations back 20 years! ;)
(Actually, I secretly approached Aleksei to ask him if I sounded like a blithering idiot and he said my Russian was good... It's most definitely a weird feeling to speak to another country's press in their language, ESPECIALLY in front of Americans. How ironic that in my own country, few people who know me would turn me loose in front of a live mike!) :)
Talk to you from Murom, hopefully... We leave in an hour (3pm).
Пока!
The OTHER Russian icon...
(Seems like we have a bit more free time before Murom, so I'm going to add a post or two!) You cannot truly appreciate this picture unless you've been on the business end of Aleksei's peals, meaning it's time to start a lecture or activity... (There were plots to steal or hide his bell, but that would be like taking a bell away from a Salvation Army volunteer...
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Grilled cheese sandwiches, post office, et al
Well, I actually have a little time this morning (it's 8:30am on Wednesday) before we begin the next step of our journey (to Murom) to blog...
First, the three pictures are of (1) the group listening to Professor Gurvitch, (2) Stacie sitting proudly after making grilled ham and cheese sandwiches (Karen is next to her), and (3) the entrance to the Moscow Street Cafe and Bar (taken to show examples of cognates)...more explanation below.
Yesterday began with my last Russian language session with Tanya (sniff!); today is my last with Nellie (sniff!). These two women are just great! I am so appreciative for all the Russian language practice I've been getting here. Dr. Pope and the staff here at the American Home have gone out of their way to give me ample opportunity to conjugate verbs and decline endings to my heart's content. I really have become a disciple of this unique institution that is the American Home here in Vladimir.
First, the three pictures are of (1) the group listening to Professor Gurvitch, (2) Stacie sitting proudly after making grilled ham and cheese sandwiches (Karen is next to her), and (3) the entrance to the Moscow Street Cafe and Bar (taken to show examples of cognates)...more explanation below.
Yesterday began with my last Russian language session with Tanya (sniff!); today is my last with Nellie (sniff!). These two women are just great! I am so appreciative for all the Russian language practice I've been getting here. Dr. Pope and the staff here at the American Home have gone out of their way to give me ample opportunity to conjugate verbs and decline endings to my heart's content. I really have become a disciple of this unique institution that is the American Home here in Vladimir.
After the language session, we visited a dentist's office, a photography studio, and the old city (open) market. Around 11:30am, we broke into 5 groups and began a scavenger hunt, which included having to get back to the American Home by bus from where we were on the other side of town, find ingredients for "an American sandwich," find a travel agency and get the cost of a ticket to American cities (ours was New York), take 5 pictures of signs that contain cognates of English words, buy drinks, and get one small souvenir that is representative of Vladimir (we bought a small, cheap Vladimir city flag). When we returned (Stacie and Karen were in my group) with ham, cheese, bread, and mustard, Stacie decided to make our sandwiches grilled cheese. They were pretty good. A grilled chesse sandwich-- as Americans know it-- just doesn't exist here. All the groups returned and we (along with the Russian folks here) ate our "American sandwiches" together. It was an interesting experience...
...But not quite as interesting as a trip to a Russian post office. Perhaps "interesting" is the wrong word. I went with Stacie and Terry, both of whom had post cards to mail back to the States, to help them communicate. First of all, just finding the post office takes some minor detective work. Secondly, once you get inside, there's no easy way to discern where to go next. Thirdly, once you pick a large room with one long counter, there are no well-documented instructions as to what woman at what place behind the counter does what. I guess Russians just know the ropes. So I walked up to the one woman I saw with out a line in front of her and asked about buying postage for postcards. She said that wasn't her job, but the lady next to her (who was away from her post) could help me when she returned. After a minute or so, the woman came back, didn't say anything to me until I said "Excuse me..." to which she replied (word-for-word quote here) "What do you want?" After a short discussion of how much it REALLY costs to send one postcard to America (19 rubles, apparently, but the rounded up to 20 for convenience-- less stamps to stick, which for the postcard mailer IS convenience), the woman asked whether they wanted to mail them airmail or regular (regular means maybe they'll get there before you die, maybe not). I said airmail, so she had to go find a sheet of what looked like Avery ink-jet labels that said airmail (in Russian). Each one had to be individually cut off the page (with scissors, which she was about to do) and peeled off the backing and then stuck on the postcard... Thankfully, she decided to just give us the sheet. Then she had to go get stamps. So, after all of that, Stacie and Terry had to come BACK to the American Home, assemble the postage and airmail stickers, then find somewhere (again) to mail the postcards. I know our U.S. post offices often have long lines and slow service, but at least once you get to a counter, you can do everything at once (the idea being to mail your letter/postcard WHILE you're there)... In some ways, like the post office, it's very hard to believe that this country was ever a superpower.
The last act of the afternoon was Professor Gurvitch (redux). He really is a fascinating character... If there's a book out there by him about his life, I'm sure it would be interesting reading!
I said goodbye to Katya (and Tsar Stefan) this morning... She really was incredibly hospitable! On Sunday, when we wagon train through again to get to the Vladimir station (for a 10pm night train to St. Petersburg), we'll be having a farewell dinner with the host families, so I'll see Katya again. Tonight we will be parcelled out to new host families for four nights. I think I'm being assigned to a woman who has a 14-year old daughter... However, we're not really sure who our families are, as there have been some changes.
If I can get to a computer while I'm in Murom, then you'll see this next step of our journey in living color... So, stay tuned!
Monday, July 09, 2007
Дождь идёт...
It started raining yesterday (Monday) evening and hasn't stopped (it's after 8am Russia time)... I walked from the American Home to Katya's last night and back again this morning in a light rain. Every Russian has an umbrella. Only silly Americans walk around in the rain, apparently.
Yesterday's docket wasn't all about women, as I had mentioned earlier. After some one-on-one practice with Nellie (I have to say my Russian has been better than during that session-- that woman has the patience of Job), Aleksei told us a few anecdotes about his life under Soviet rule. It's so hard to believe that the Soviet Union really existed, even with the few vestiges that remain. After lunch at a restaurant in town, our first presenter of the afternoon was a gentleman named Percy Gurvitch, who is a professor of foreign languages at Vladimir State Pedagogical University. He is 80+ years old and shared pretty much an hour and a half's worth of contemporay Russian history as he lived it, including 3 years in a Nazi camp and 4 years in one of Stalin's camps. His take on Krushchev and Gorbachev (and even Putin) as three great men was curious, but understandable, given the first couple of Communist leaders. I think he's coming back this afternoon to continue... This is the kind of thing you just can't get from a book or a movie!
The afternoon ended with a discussion about women in Russia-- I have to tell you, the cultural and gender stereotypes in this country are, indeed, speed bumps on the road to any kind of equality as we understand it in America... This topic was interesting, but as I'm far from an expert on women or their roles (in any country), my level of competence on the subject kind of dampened my enthusiasm for participating in the discussion.
Today I think I have another language session, then we have some sort of "scavenger hunt." I don't know exactly what we're looking for, but in my experience here, so far, I don't find things...they tend to find me. Not one day goes by without a surprise... Some days the compass shows the correct heading, other days it just spins out of control... Some days you just have to dead reckon (if I may wax nautical) or flow where the current takes you...
So tonight we pack for Murom. I don't know how frequently I'll be able to touch this blog, so if I'm out of sight for any length of time, I hope I won't be out of mind! :)
Until next time... Всего хорошего!
Yesterday's docket wasn't all about women, as I had mentioned earlier. After some one-on-one practice with Nellie (I have to say my Russian has been better than during that session-- that woman has the patience of Job), Aleksei told us a few anecdotes about his life under Soviet rule. It's so hard to believe that the Soviet Union really existed, even with the few vestiges that remain. After lunch at a restaurant in town, our first presenter of the afternoon was a gentleman named Percy Gurvitch, who is a professor of foreign languages at Vladimir State Pedagogical University. He is 80+ years old and shared pretty much an hour and a half's worth of contemporay Russian history as he lived it, including 3 years in a Nazi camp and 4 years in one of Stalin's camps. His take on Krushchev and Gorbachev (and even Putin) as three great men was curious, but understandable, given the first couple of Communist leaders. I think he's coming back this afternoon to continue... This is the kind of thing you just can't get from a book or a movie!
The afternoon ended with a discussion about women in Russia-- I have to tell you, the cultural and gender stereotypes in this country are, indeed, speed bumps on the road to any kind of equality as we understand it in America... This topic was interesting, but as I'm far from an expert on women or their roles (in any country), my level of competence on the subject kind of dampened my enthusiasm for participating in the discussion.
Today I think I have another language session, then we have some sort of "scavenger hunt." I don't know exactly what we're looking for, but in my experience here, so far, I don't find things...they tend to find me. Not one day goes by without a surprise... Some days the compass shows the correct heading, other days it just spins out of control... Some days you just have to dead reckon (if I may wax nautical) or flow where the current takes you...
So tonight we pack for Murom. I don't know how frequently I'll be able to touch this blog, so if I'm out of sight for any length of time, I hope I won't be out of mind! :)
Until next time... Всего хорошего!
Sunday, July 08, 2007
Home is where you hang your shapka.
This is the Krushev-era building where I live, on the fourth floor. The balcony just to the right and up a little from the center of the picture is Katya's apartment and Stefan's lookout perch (it's the only balcony with wood framing). Though Katya's apartment is modest, you really can't tell what the inside of any building in Russia looks like from the outside.Today (Monday for me already) we will be delving into the issue(s) of women in Russia, after a 9:30 language class (my one-on-one "torture" session). No bus rides-- woo hoo!
There is an optional soccer game tonight, but I'm going to pass. The local team here is named Torpedo (and I think they're playing a team from St. Petersburg)... It's just too much drinking and yelling for me after a day of lectures!
So that's it for now. As usual, more later...
Krolik. The other white meat.
Stefan
The last Sunday in Vladimir...
Time sure is moving quickly here in Russia! Today I got up around 6am (Katya got in after I went to bed around 9:30, so I left her a note last night to not bother getting up so early) and headed here to the American Home to do some blog maintenance (and get some coffee) around 7. Sundays are free days for us, so it's a great time to get some uninhibited blogging out of the way.
Katya is going to see her father in the country (outside of town) and so I won't see her until about 3pm. After a call home around 4, she and I will probably go wander, eat, etc. I really haven't seen her since yesterday morning... And she's no doubt worried to death that I'm not getting enough to eat!
Our time here in Vladimir is winding down. Wednesday around noontime we head off to the city of Murom, where we'll be for 4 nights with other host families. Next Sunday we depart for St. Petersburg by train.
So far, in my opinion, this "seminar" is aptly named ("Experiencing Russia Through Everyday Life")! While I know that the intercultural experience may be more or less favorable per each one of us participating, I have to say that I'm getting a lot out of it-- especially the Russian language experience!
Guess that's it for today. I finally feel caught up... As usual, more later!
Пока!!
P.S. A quick note about the date and time on posts-- each post is stamped with U.S. central (Texas) time. So as I'm writing here, it may be today still (or even odder, your tomorrow) when I write "yesterday," you'll just have to do the math. (That's kind of why I put a clock on this blog.)
Katya is going to see her father in the country (outside of town) and so I won't see her until about 3pm. After a call home around 4, she and I will probably go wander, eat, etc. I really haven't seen her since yesterday morning... And she's no doubt worried to death that I'm not getting enough to eat!
Our time here in Vladimir is winding down. Wednesday around noontime we head off to the city of Murom, where we'll be for 4 nights with other host families. Next Sunday we depart for St. Petersburg by train.
So far, in my opinion, this "seminar" is aptly named ("Experiencing Russia Through Everyday Life")! While I know that the intercultural experience may be more or less favorable per each one of us participating, I have to say that I'm getting a lot out of it-- especially the Russian language experience!
Guess that's it for today. I finally feel caught up... As usual, more later!
Пока!!
P.S. A quick note about the date and time on posts-- each post is stamped with U.S. central (Texas) time. So as I'm writing here, it may be today still (or even odder, your tomorrow) when I write "yesterday," you'll just have to do the math. (That's kind of why I put a clock on this blog.)
Saturday, July 07, 2007
For my Russian students in Texas...
This is a picture of a sign in front of a place we visited yesterday (Saturday). On the first day of school, I will offer you the opportunity to start off the school year with an extra credit quiz on the five items on the sign (the largest of which is the name of the place).
See if you can figure out what the place is, what it would be called in English, and what's available to those who visit...
See if you can figure out what the place is, what it would be called in English, and what's available to those who visit...
Two meals in two hours!
Another place to eat! After visiting and eating with Sergei and Nina's family yesterday (Saturday), we had a stop at one of the newer hotels in the area, then we were at this restaurant for lunch, which had been arranged ahead of time. No one knew that there would be so much food at the Russian family's house (apparently it was supposed to be tea and a light snack). Here we are eating in a typical-looking traktir (tavern-style restaurant)-- yes, a full course lunch (salad, bread, some sort of warm potatoes in a bowl, soup, a fish dish, and coffee/tea). After this we went to...
Nope, not to another place for food (thank God). We visited another hotel, a relatively swanky one by Russian (and even maybe Western) standards. Since yesterday was 07-07-07 on the calendar, we saw a few couples getting married. At this second hotel, we walked past a couple about to release a pair of white doves; however, oddly enough, I didn't hear anyone yelling "Gorka!" at the couples (maybe I just missed it). Gorka means bitter and it's a tradition for well-wishers to yell this at the bride and groom-- then they kiss, changing the bitter to sweet by tradition.
After the hotel, we visited a ceramics place (where pottery is made; actually a few in our group made an small item while there)... It was quite an eventful day, considering we started with cow poop and all...
Nope, not to another place for food (thank God). We visited another hotel, a relatively swanky one by Russian (and even maybe Western) standards. Since yesterday was 07-07-07 on the calendar, we saw a few couples getting married. At this second hotel, we walked past a couple about to release a pair of white doves; however, oddly enough, I didn't hear anyone yelling "Gorka!" at the couples (maybe I just missed it). Gorka means bitter and it's a tradition for well-wishers to yell this at the bride and groom-- then they kiss, changing the bitter to sweet by tradition.After the hotel, we visited a ceramics place (where pottery is made; actually a few in our group made an small item while there)... It was quite an eventful day, considering we started with cow poop and all...
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